Tuesday, 11 June 2013

_project #bespoke #cape #part6


Yeah, we're getting there for sure! On Saturday it was time to cut the sample fabric for the draft model. NEW TAILOR's head cutter Marion was so kind to put it all together and the top picture shows the first fitting.

You might notice Marion sitting there whit a red marker deciding on shortening the overall length - as it was too dramatic at the original lenght. Also, at hip hight, you notice an opening that will fit for my arms to go through whilst cycling. We will add some lenght to the darts on my shoulders to preve that pulling that is happening on the pic. 


Laying out the sample fabric on the floor as the cutting table was too small to put the full pattern on. The antique irons act as a 'paper weights'. 


When the fabric is marked with blue crayon, the paper is removed and fabric is cut. This picture shows the darts in he right shoulder that for the next fitting will be given some more lenght.

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

_worn #rainy #day


I was invited by Violo Milano to do some modeling for them. Crazy people ;) Photographer Alexander of It's Daily Routine took this snapshot of me whilst going outside for a rainy shoot.

worn that day:

_suit: oger handmade. navy panama weave S110 wool . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white oxfiord cotton . mtm
_tie: fiorio . 100% silk dotted print . rtw
_bracelets: viola milano . different materials . rtw
_socks: pantherella . navy wool and lycra . rtw
_shoes: crockett and jones . dark brown monkton on 348 last . rtw
_umbrella: fox . black silk . rtw


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Wednesday, 29 May 2013

_new #tailor #suit #herringbone #bespoke

What a great suit this is!

The NEW TAILOR 16 suit, full canvas made in a green herringbone wool from the Scabal Rhapsody bunch. Unconstructed, no lining, patch pockets and side adjusters. What else. 




Tuesday, 21 May 2013

_project #bespoke #cape #part5

This has been in my mind for about three years and we're close to finishing the project. I would have been nowhere without Marion, our head cutter at NEW TAILOR. Last weekend, we finished the pattern. As you can see in Sunday's post we are still in doubt whether to opt for a 'normal' collar (high rise) or a hood (Oliver Queen style). 

Top picture show neckline and shoulder construction pattern. As you can see, the shoulde will have several 'parts', allowing a better balance in the cape all together. 



Cutting the pattern. The tape shows that for this size a cloak, the pattern paper is slightly too small, so we needed to glue it together. 


Scissors and an antique iron device we have currently employed as a paper weight. 


High end action on the shoulder cuttin'. 

Marion and the first half of the cape!

More soon... 


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Tuesday, 7 May 2013

_media #newtailor #textilia

Me and my colleague Marcel were recently interviewed for Dutch fashion retail magazine Textilia. Thanks for the exposure!


If you want me to send you the full article, just send me an email at menco@lacouleurblanche.nl


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Friday, 12 April 2013

_new #norfolk #jacket #newtailor


Part of my job at NEW TAILOR is to create and inspire. The Norfolk Jacket for SS2013 in a bright blue cotton has so far been a great success!

_jacket: new tailor 16. 100% blue cotton from the dormeiul jacketings bunch . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white oxford cotton . mtm



Inside lining in bright blue cupro. Pay attention to the 'hare pocket'. We are all just hunters. 


Squared bellow pockets and rounded flaps. 


Belts, braces, pleats and cottons. NEW TAILOR Spring and Summer 2013. 

Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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Friday, 5 April 2013

_worn #04.04.2013 #bespoke #suit #dormeuil


There are days that you order a an extra pair of pants for your suit afterwards - in my case because of the wish for a relatively high waistband and fishtail back - and then a picture shows that fabrics of the earlier made jacket and new trousers don't match. This is that day.

Funny enough I am not able to see any difference when I look at it with the naked eye so no probs at all! One of the best suits there is, anyway!

_suit: new tailor 16. basket weave from the dormeuil amadeus 365 bunch . mtm
_shirt: emanuel berg for new tailor . 100% white oxfiord cotton . mtm
_tie: battistoni . 100% silk dolphin print . rtw
_pocket square: fiorio milano . 100 % cashmere . rtw
_bracelets: viola milano and trashness . different materials . rtw
_socks: pantherella . dark grey wool and lycra . rtw
_ shoes: crockett and jones . dark brown monkton on 348 last . rtw



Looking for inspiration in the (infamous) Glennhunt fabric bunch. Love that green and red windowpane - reminds me of the Hackett check. 


All that sprezza in the tie. What a moment. 


Fishtail!!!


Polish your shoes!

Pictures by Sjoerd Spendel

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